As professional skin therapists seek advanced solutions to elevate their treatment offerings, Alpha Keto Acids (AKA) are emerging as a game-changer in the treatment room. This innovative exfoliating acid is making waves for its unique properties, exceptional client results, and its ability to complement or surpass traditional acids such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).
Before we spill the serum on brands at the forefront of this disruption, let's bring it back to basics.
What Are Alpha Keto Acids?
Alpha Keto Acids (AKA's) are a class of naturally occurring organic compounds characterised by a ketone group adjacent to a carboxylic acid. Unlike AHAs and BHAs, AKAs work not only as exfoliants but also as precursors for amino acid synthesis, making them highly biocompatible with the skin. As a precursor of glutamate and glutamine, AKG acts as an antioxidant agent as it directly reacts with hydrogen peroxide with formation of succinate, water, and carbon dioxide; meanwhile, it discharges plenty of ATP by oxidative decarboxylation.* This dual functionality allows them to gently exfoliate whilst promoting skin regeneration and repair.
How Does AKA Compare to Other Acids?
Gentler Yet Effective
Compared to AHAs (such as glycolic acid) and BHAs (such as salicylic acid), AKA offers a gentler exfoliation process. This makes it ideal for clients who cannot tolerate aggressive peels but still desire the benefits of improved skin clarity and smoothness.
Unique Cellular Impact
Whilst AHAs and BHAs primarily focus on breaking down dead skin cells, AKA provides an additional benefit by stimulating amino acid synthesis, which plays a crucial role in collagen production and overall skin health.
Lower Risk of Over-Exfoliation
Overuse of AHAs and BHAs can lead to compromised skin barriers, irritation, and dryness. AKA minimises this risk, allowing for more frequent use in facials or as part of daily home care routines.
What Results Are AKA's Achieving?
Clinical study testing methods and VISIA testing show that after 28 days of treatment use the cream with Alpha-KG and control sample without Alpha-KG, instrumentation measurements were adopted to assess skin wrinkles, texture, elasticity, and firmness, tested by the VISIA-CR.
Immediately after using the sample D0, the skin wrinkles were significantly reduced by 23.64%.
After using the sample for D7, the average clinical score of outer corner wrinkles was significantly reduced by 15.23%, and nasolabial groove wrinkles were significantly reduced by 25.68%.
After using the sample for D56, the mean clinical evaluation score of crow's feet decreased significantly by 25.42%; the average score of clinical evaluation of skin firmness increased significantly by 41.40%; the skin gloss increased significantly by 28.67%.
How Are Professional Skin Therapists Using AKA?
In the treatment room, skin therapists are using AKA in the following ways:
1. Gentle Exfoliation for Sensitive or Sensitised Skins
2. Brightening Treatments
3. Prepping Skin for Advanced Modalities
4. Post-Treatment Maintenance
Brands Leading the Way with AKA
Several skincare brands are innovating with AKA as part of their professional and retail ranges:
Biologique Recherche
Known for their science-backed formulations, Biologique Recherche incorporates AKA in their brightening and reparative treatment products.
Environ Skincare
Pioneering AKA in their exfoliating toners and pre-treatment solutions to prepare skin for vitamin-based therapies.
Dermaviduals
Focused on corneotherapy, Dermaviduals integrates AKA to support skin barrier recovery whilst achieving a smooth complexion.
Alpha Keto Acids are more than just the latest trend in skincare—they represent a significant advancement in how we approach exfoliation and skin health. For professional skin therapists, AKA is a versatile tool that delivers remarkable results for a wide range of clients. As more brands innovate with AKA, we can expect to see even more exciting applications of this powerful ingredient.
*this post was sourced with information from Yang, F., Zhou, Z., Guo, M., & Zhou, Z. (2022). The study of skin hydration, anti-wrink
les function improvement of anti-aging cream with alpha-ketoglutarate. *Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology*, 21(4), 1736–1743. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14635
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